Descending into Christiano Ronaldo airport on the Portuguese island of Madeira ranks near the top of our European adventures. Immediately, a sense of adventure was upon us as the flaps extended at 2,000 feet and the landing gear came down. Madeira’s wind shear will have you gripping the armrests as the pilots counteract the forces of nature upon descending into one the world’s bumpiest landings. For those who dislike not being in control the landing can be an exercise in learning how to let go. I loved it, my wife didn’t. The runway is an engineering feat on level with the success of its namesake’s soccer skills. The runway seemingly grows out of the ocean on concrete pillars that rise 230 feet or 70 meters into the air connecting the tarmac to a terminal that is perched on a cliff. Seems like the perfect place to build an airport. Deplaning down a staircase you realize why the runway was built where it was because the island is a gnarled mess of mountains, ravines and cliffs. Flat land doesn’t exist.
Although relaxing for those who want majestic sunsets and calming ocean views, Madeira’s true magic is exploring various microclimates and absorbing the historical importance of its natural resources. Madeira literally translates to wood and when it was discovered by the Portuguese 600 years ago it was the trees harvested from the island that built the fleet which would go on to discover the world. The island is a study in resource management. The Northwest part of the island is a rainforest that forms from the mist of the Atlantic hitting a 2,000 foot cliff wall. Similar to the sea fog that lurks over San Fransico bay, the moisture that forms here irrigates the entire island bringing water through series of viaducts that date back to beginning of Portuguese settlement. While the fauna is different, the terrain here is similar to Hawaii and on the Pico to Pico hike resembles a lush Grand Canyon hike with an ocean view. As a graduate of doing the rim to rim hike in the Grand Canyon, I can say that Madeira’s hike takes the cake.
Historically, inhabitants populated villages separated by incredibly steep mountains. It would take a week to 10 days for villagers to bring their wool and other produce to the main city of Funchal for trade. With assistance from the European Union, these villages are now quickly connected by car through a series of tunnels carved through the mountains. Which means tourists can see all the island has to offer in mere hours, not weeks. Madeira’s road system is excellent because of the tunnels, however, once off the main highways you will encounter some challenging switchbacks as you traverse up the valleys.
We flew out from Lisbon around 7am and landed about 8:30am. Our four day stay began with a hike on the eastern most part of the island, about 30 minutes from the airport. We had to kill some time before our accommodation was ready and this was the perfect way to do it. We drove to the trailhead for PR8 Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço and parked along the road. It was perfectly safe to leave the car there. This trail heads out the eastern point of the island and resembles a tail when looking at google maps. The hike itself is on the drier side of the island and closer to sea level making it easy for people of all levels of fitness. It is exposed so wear some sunscreen, but in November it was not that hot. In fact, Madeira’s temperatures are mild all year round. Cool, breezy evenings followed by warm sunshine in the afternoon. It’s very agreeable. The scenic cliffside overlooks and expansive views of the Atlantic are breathtaking. As you make your way to the turnaround point and look backwards you get the sense of what Madeira is all about. From here, you see the island emerge from the ocean and rise immediately to 6,000 feet. Everywhere, except where you are standing, is lush. The greenery ascends steep slopes and clouds intermingle with rocky peaks. In the distance, Funchal echelons up the mountainside until its expansion is stopped by an old growth forest. This hike was perfect foreshadowing for the adventures awaiting.
Later that afternoon we drove about an hour west, beyond Funchal and checked into our vacation rental. After provisioning at the local market, we settled into our home, which like most domiciles in Madeira was terraced into a cliff. On the uppermost floor there was a heated pool that overlooked terraced banana plantations in the foreground and the blue waters of the Atlantic beyond. From the pool we evaded chilly winds whipping up from the ocean while watching unmatchable sunsets. Absolute bliss for wife and kids alike and major points for Dad!
The next morning, we headed to the Fanal Forest in the northwest part of the island. This area is dotted with uniquely shaped trees that have been twisted and turned by the high winds that pummel the island. Even more special was the fact that the forest has a marine layer that creates an eerie-like experience reminiscent of a middle earth adventure for Lord of the Rings fans. Eventually walking through the clouds leads to the edge of the world and a steep 2,000 foot drop to the ocean below. Although not dangerous, you’ll certainly want to keep an eye out if you are roaming the fields with small children. Our family had fun playing hide and seek with all the trees and misty air. The clouds do eventually burn off as the day gets longer revealing lush green fields and maybe an overzealous hidden kid.
On our next adventure we drove into Funchal and started our day in the Christiano Ronaldo CR7 Museum. The museum is dedicated to all things CR7 and has a plethora of trophies, cleats and kits that the famous striker has earned or worn over the years. While my kids were amazed at the displays and this living god’s achievements, I thought to myself that even Narcissus would be jealous of such a display of self-love. It was my wife, however, that got the biggest thrill when she was captured on the green screen with a dashing Ronaldo at her side. She only came back down to earth when I modeled CR7 high cut underwear in the gift shop. Nothing says I love you like wearing those with your aging man bod.
Later in the day we explored Funchal’s quaint old town that had the customary European feel of churches and cafes. The city is very cute and walkable, but we found it to be geared to tourism and the prices could reflect that. There is a gondola that moved tourists fresh off cruise ships up the mountain. From the top you could hire locals that bring you back down the hilly streets in a wooden sled. We did not participate because the gondola line was long, but people did mention the sledding was a blast. The highlight for us was the municipal park area above the marina and one particular gelato stand close by along the docks.
Driving out of the city, we stopped at the Cabo Girão Skywalk. The cantilevered grated metal walkway allows the intrepid tourists to feel like a hawk surveying the ground below for something tasty. As you walkout, the wind from the Atlantic blasts your body to the point where you have to stabilize yourself. After counter balancing the power of nature you enjoy a view from a mile up which even makes cruise ships below look more like a billionaire’s weekend getaway. Once you are done enjoying the view, you can peruse the local goods including wool sweaters, blankets and socks.
On our last day, I decided to wake up early and drive through Funchal and up the mountain to the Pico to Pico hike. Even before reaching the trailhead, I had an adventure driving through the city, heading up steep and narrow streets barely wide enough for the car to fit through. As I serpentined my way up the mountain the city gave way to the forest and before I knew it, awe-inspiring views of the ocean below emerged from the trees. I love challenging drives like this, but I strongly suggest hiring a driver and guide if you do this hike. You can enjoy the views without being concerned with driving off the cliffside. The hike follows the PR1 route and begins at the Pico do Arieiro and goes 10 kilometers until you reach the Pico Ruivo, Madeira’s highest peak. This can be a one way with the assistance of a guide who will arrange for pick up or you can roundtrip it back to the starting point. I chose to do the roundtrip and was not disappointed. From the beginning, the trail gets the heart beating as you negotiate a narrow walkway bordered by steep drop offs. While the trail itself is easy to walk on, there is solid footing nearly the entire way, the ascents are difficult and burn your leg muscles. The views are distractingly beautiful causing your mind to focus on the scenery and not the trail edges dropping straight down into an abyss so be careful. My tempo was rapid, but I slowed my pace more often than usual because of challenging ascents and spectacular views. Between the trees, steep cliffs and valleys and ocean views beyond this hike sits a top any national park hikes I’ve have done in the USA. The roundtrip took me around 6 hours to complete and I was exhausted.
Madeira really has it all – beach, mountains, cloud forest, amazing views and quaint cities. If you enjoy spending time in nature, you should definitely put Madeira on your list. We paired our stay there with a few days in Lisbon and Porto and everyone had an amazing time!
What’s your favorite place in Portugal?
