If you’ve ever thought about hiking Half Dome in Yosemite, you know it’s not as easy as it looks. Over 20 miles long with a significant vertical gain, only the strongest hikers will make it to the top. And you need to win a lottery to have the chance to do it! Here is everything you need to know to consider making your own Half Dome Hike.
Last July I was lucky enough to get a lottery pass to hike to the summit of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park. I choose to do the Mist Trail which is 20 miles round trip and ascends 5500 feet. That means you descend 5500 for those of you with iffy knees like me. Many people opt to camp out overnight to shorten the hiking each day and not carry as many supplies. I was not one of those people. Since my family and I base camped in Groveland, CA I had about an 1.5 hour drive to the trailhead inside the park and had to leave at 3:30am in order to start the hike at the recommended 5am. At 4:58am I set out in the pitch black of night with a miner’s light guiding the way. Because it was mid July and I was doing the hike in one day I needed a minimum of 5 liters of water, lots of energy bars and Gu packets. I filled some of my water bottles with electrolyte mix packets to stay as hydrated as possible.
The beginning of the hike immediately tests your calves and quads as you quickly start to ascend. You will pass the Vernal and Nevada Falls. As dusk broke, the remnants of the previous evening’s stars were still shining in a purplish sky. I really pushed hard in the first two hours to get ahead of the rising sun and would highly recommend to plan on this if you’re hiking in the summer like I did. The day I hiked reached the mid 80s and really pushes you to your limits if you hike at a good pace.
About 2 hours into the hike I reached the sub dome. Before climbing this area a Ranger is waiting to check your permit so have it ready or you will not be able to proceed to the summit. Sub Dome is a scary and difficult climb especially after hustling up 9 miles. There has been a path carved out with steep rock steps in areas, but the footing is difficult and one false step could send you on a quite a tumble so be careful! Take the time to enjoy the views from here because they are the best on the entire hike.
At this point, I realized that I had a slight fear of heights or at least falling to my death. I had to reassure myself that I could get over the remaining obstacles, which included bouldering over blind overhangs with no ropes. This was the most challenging part of the hike and scared the you know what out of me. After overcoming my fear (and some aggressive squirrels that will eat right through your backpack if you leave it alone) you come to the final ascent to reach the summit. It’s a 400 foot cable aided climb that is best done early in the morning, if you can beat the crowd up the hill. I would make sure that your legs aren’t too tired to make this ascent as it is nerve racking, but less so than the sub dome portion of the hike.
Getting to the top is an instant rush of satisfaction and accomplishment. The view is mesmerizing and humbling. I personally did not get too close to the edge of the granite monolith because it’s scary as heck, but many hikers did. I guess they didn’t possess fear gene that I apparently inherited when it comes to heights.
After enjoying the summit views I began my descent on exhausted but adrenaline filled legs. Descending was much harder on my knees then climbing up so it took me a lot longer than the ascent. I also took more time to enjoy the beautiful views and various points of interest like a swimming hole which was a godsend on such a hot day. The final 5 miles are pretty difficult because your legs are shot, the descent is steep and wet and the rocky footing is uneven. The further down you hike the more people you start seeing and by the last two miles the path can become crowded and a little difficult to maneuver because your legs are so tired. However, if you’re gregarious like me the small talk you make with fellow hikers helps finish of an unbelievable day of a serious physical accomplishment. By 2pm I had completed the 20 miles hike and began driving home.
The Half Dome Hike at Yosemite was challenging, but an incredible experience. If you’re well prepared with waters and a game plan, the hike will go smoothly and you’ll reap the rewards of an amazing view at the top!
Things to Know Before You Go:
- In 2020 and 2021, in addition to paying to enter the park, you will need a reservation to enter Yosemite. Reservations can be booked in advance at Recreation.gov. Students in the 4th grade and their family can enter the park for free. Read about getting your 4th Grade Pass and print yours today.
- In order to climb up from the Sub Dome you will need a permit. Permits are issued via lottery in March each year or two days ahead of your hike. Get all of the details and apply for your permit online at Recreation.gov.
- You will need at least 5-6 liters of water and you should allow 10-11 hours for the hike if you’re planning on doing it in one day. You have to have enough energy bars and food. You’re burning calories at an incredible rate and can become lightheaded easily. You also need a miner’s light so that your hands can be free for grasping and keeping your balance. Finally, you will need gloves for the cables at the top of the hike or risk burning your palms or slipping because of sweat.
Have you ever hiked Half Dome in Yosemite? Let us know in the comments what your favorite part was.
